By Gabriel Geller, WSET III
Sukkos is, par excellence, the holiday on our calendar that most highlights the mitzvah of hosting guests, hachnasas orchim. Our sukkah should be like the tent of our patriarch Avraham, which was open in all four directions to welcome and invite in all the passersby. Sukkos, unlike Purim and Pesach, is also a holiday where wine is not as much of a centerpiece from a ritual standpoint. However, it remains an important feature at every meal to enhance the simcha, the joyous and celebratory atmosphere at the table. The lack of ritual requirements beyond kiddush is an opportunity to branch out and discover all sorts of wine from any category—be it a sweet red Israeli wine, a bone-dry French Sauvignon Blanc, a fruity Italian variety, or a sparkling wine from California, and anything and everything in between. The guests whom we welcome into our sukkahs can be Jews from all walks of life and backgrounds, with a wide array of preferences. Let’s therefore explore together a selection of wines from various styles, regions, and varieties to enjoy with our guests this coming Sukkos. Chag sameach, l’chaim!
Covenant, Solomon, Sauvignon Blanc, 2022: Covenant Winery is synonymous with premium California wine. The Solomon Sauvignon Blanc is named Solomon in homage to the late Leslie Rudd, who passed away a few years ago and whose Hebrew name was Solomon/Shlomo. Rudd was one of Covenant’s founding partners. This incredibly sophisticated and complex, barrel-aged wine is nicknamed by Covenant’s founding partner and winemaker Jeff Morgan as “Faux Brion,” in tribute to the Château Haut-Brion Blanc in Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, which is one of that region’s most prestigious and iconic white wines. I can understand why, as its aromas of lemon, lime, jasmine, and iodine unfold, with a subtly viscous palate featuring much of the same, as well as fresh almonds, saline minerals, and citrus pith, all lifted by a high yet remarkably well-balancing acidity. This wine pairs wonderfully with most savory fish, poultry, and veal dishes.
Lovatelli, Primitivo, Salento, 2022: About 27 years ago, it was discovered that the Primitivo variety from Italy is the genetic twin of Zinfandel, a variety mostly grown in California. In other words, Primitivo equals Zinfandel. Like its American counterpart, Primitivo makes big, bold, fruit-forward wines. This Lovatelli Primitivo from southern Italy’s Salento region features notes of jammy, very ripe blackberries and dried strawberries with an interesting mix of caramel and savory mushroom notes, along with a hint of maraschino cherry liqueur and chewy tannins on the finish. This is the type of red wine that pairs well with braised or smoked baby back ribs or short ribs drenched in sticky sweet sauce. Chol ha’moed BBQ, anyone?
Celler de Capçanes, Peraj Petita, Monstant, 2022: This eclectic blend from Spain’s Catalonia has long been a top QPR (quality-price ratio), offering a complex yet ready-to-drink wine from the get-go, with notes of red and black forest berries, fresh Mediterranean herbs, oriental spices, and a touch of savory earthiness. As I type these words, the image that comes to mind is a juicy pastrami sandwich and horseradish dressing with a healthy pour of Petita in my wine glass.
Herzog, Special Reserve, Méthode Champenoise, Brut, Rosé, NV: Herzog’s head winemaker David Galzignato, despite his Italian roots, crafts an exceptionally refreshing Champagne-style brut rosé. This dry, crisp, fruit-forward wine captures the essence of summer with notes of strawberries, watermelon, and sour cherries with subtle yeasty notes of freshly baked bread, complemented by a mineral finish and vibrant acidity. Ideal with fruit salad, sushi, or grilled chicken, fish, and veal.
Tura, Mountain Peak, 2018: A flagship wine hailing from a winery in the heart of the Shomron in Israel, this is an elegant and well-structured Bordeaux blend. Full-bodied with notes of black fruit, toasted oak, and tobacco, it is rich and generous on the palate with savory earth undertones and a long, tannic finish. At 6 years old, it is approachable now, but I encourage those who can to set some bottles aside, as it should evolve and develop further over the coming 5–8 years or so. If you were wondering which wine to serve with your standing rib roast, then stop wondering and grab this Tura Mountain Peak.
