By Gabriel Geller, WSET III
Royal Wine/Kedem
How fortunate are the Jewish people? In America, what is commonly referred to as “the holiday season” includes Chanukah, as Jews have historically had a wider, recognized impact on popular culture. This year, Chanukah coincides with two non-Jewish holidays—just two days. Baruch Hashem, we have eight days! While the author of these lines encourages drinking and sharing a nice bottle of wine every night of Chanukah, it’s understandable that not everyone can do so. Therefore, let’s review five great wines to enjoy this coming Chanukah.
Let’s start with an Israeli wine. It’s a common minhag to eat cheese on Chanukah. While certain types of red wine do complement certain types of cheese, white wines are generally more versatile. The Feldstein Dabouki, from one of Israel’s most exclusive boutique wineries, is made mainly from Dabouki as well as other grape varieties indigenous to the Middle East. Indeed, it’s likely that all the way back to the Beis HaMikdash, wine made from Dabouki grapes was used for the service. Perhaps the Maccabim drank Dabouki wine after they defeated the Greeks and purified the holy sites. The Feldstein Dabouki 2023 would pair well with most cheese.
Staying with wines from Israel, the Black Onyx 2018 from Gros winery is a deep, rich Cabernet Sauvignon that would stand up to a juicy brisket, whether braised or smoked. With fried food, the answer is always a crisp sparkling wine. The Herzog Lineage Momentus NV is a touch off-dry, making it a crowd-pleaser, as the sweetness is sufficient for those who prefer their wine on the sweeter side, and dry enough for those who like it that way. Between the focused, balanced bubbles and the refreshing acidity, this wine can match latkes with or without applesauce.
Doughnuts have arguably become Chanukah’s most popular dessert. Bakeries and seasoned cooks come up with all sorts of fillings and toppings, ranging from traditional sweet strawberry jam to gourmet, savory chicken liver topped with pink peppercorn, and everything in between. Italy is home to some of the greatest wineries in the world, among them Terra di Seta in Tuscany. Their Chianti Classico Riserva 2020 is lovely on its own but can also accompany many different types of food, so you should always keep some at home. Let’s remain old-fashioned with an apricot jam-filled doughnut and a glass of the lovely Château Piada 2022. This is a Sauternes, a region world-renowned for its outstanding dessert wines. Elegant and delicately sweet, it has lively acidity that helps with the oiliness of the doughnut and matches the apricot jam.
So, this Chanukah, don’t just open any old bottle when contemplating those beautiful candles, symbolizing so many miracles. Celebrate with a special bottle of wine shared with your family and friends. L’chaim, to a happy Chanukah!
