By Gabriel Geller, WSET III
The meaning of this famous phrase that is said among others in the birkas hachodesh, the blessing for the new month, that we say before Musaf on the Shabbos preceding Rosh Chodesh, resonates quite strongly now. In these challenging times, as we once again face adversity and hatred as a people, we also are both the witnesses and protagonists of the realization of this prophecy from Yeshahayahu HaNavi. If you take a close look at the community or lifestyle section of every other frum newspaper or magazine, you will notice articles and recipes authored by Jewish women and men from many different traditions and countries around the world. Through food, each of these authors contributes and shares their rich cultural and family heritage, be it from Hungary, Morocco, Poland, Yemen, etc. Wherever we are from, we, as Yidden, all have a cultural heritage that should unite rather than divide us. This is the reason why I chose a variety of wines from countries far away from one another to enjoy over the upcoming yomim tovim, instead of the usual “new wines for the new year” or “sweet wines for a sweet year.” I hope you like them at least as much as I do. L’chaim, shanah tovah, have a gut gebentched yur and a great yom tov!
Netofa, Latour, White, 2021: In my family, the custom with the Seder of Rosh Hashanah is to start with the simanim that are part of the shivas haminim, the seven species of Eretz Yisrael. Therefore, I will start with this Chenin Blanc grown and vinified in the Lower Galilee by Pierre Miodownick, a French winemaker with 43 harvests under his belt, and counting. This wine exemplifies the mutual enrichment of different cultures, here a wine grown in Israel by local viticulturists but made by a Frenchman with methods from France’s Loire Valley. This Chenin is dry, with notes of pear, quince, and lime on the nose and palate, it has a nice viscosity to it with subtle hints of earthy minerals and almonds, with refreshing acidity leading to a lip-smacking finish.
Herzog, Lineage, Chardonnay, Clarksburg, 2023: Lineage is the “value” line of Herzog Wine Cellars. Not that their other wines don’t provide great value, they certainly do, but with Lineage we have an incredible and extensive number of lovely red, white, and sparkling wines that are all priced at about $20 or less. The Chardonnay is my favorite, showcasing a remarkable balance between the ripe, California sun-kissed fruit notes of lemon and apple combined with refreshing acidity and hints of almonds on the finish.
Clos de Caille, Blanc, Côtes de Provence, 2023: This wine happens to be brand new. It is a white wine made from a grape variety named Rolle, which is better known by its Italian name: Vermentino. The region is best known for its rosé wines, but some very fine whites and reds are made there, as well. It has a nice, fruit-forward profile of stone fruits and pear with a touch of green apple and nice, flinty mineral undertones, almost smoky which contribute to its complexity. Well worth trying!
Cantina Giuliano, A Mano, Toscana IGT, 2020: Cantina Giuliano is the boutique family Italian winery of Eli and Lara Gauthier. Eli is French, and Lara is Italian. Together, they have combined Eli’s winemaking knowledge and experience acquired in France with Lara’s family estate and Tuscanian vineyards. A Mano is the winery’s flagship wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Technically, this is what’s called a Super Tuscan, even though Cantina Giuliano also has another wine called “Super Tuscan.” This is a big, rich, and generous wine with notes of ripe black fruits, roasted herbs, savory earthy notes, and chewy tannins. I would actually pair this Italian wine with a good ol’ American tomahawk steak, with roasted cherry tomatoes on the side for the Italian touch.
ESSA, Emunah, 2020: This is another family winery, owned and operated in South Africa by power couple Josh and Chana Rynderman. Josh grew up in Boston and San Jose, whereas Chana was born and grew up in South Africa. Josh brought his winemaking skills, which he mostly learned in California from Benyamin Cantz of Four Gates’ fame and took kosher South African wine to the next level. The Emunah is a full-bodied Bordeaux-style blend, with rich black and blue fruit, as well as notes of rich earth and tobacco, with a long and powerful finish. This is a wine that is immensely enjoyable now but also likely to age nicely over the coming five years or so.
Château Piada, Sauternes, 2022: The sweet touch, certainly appropriate for Rosh Hashanah and year-round, as well. There have been a number of kosher Château Piada for nearly 40 years already! This 2022 is, in my humble opinion, the best Piada in quite a few years. It has its distinct notes of dried apricot, mango, and orange with notes of honeysuckle and vanilla. It is beautifully balanced by excellent acidity, which prevents the wine from tasting too sweet. Sip it with a warm slice of apple strudel.