Nine Days Cooking

Food is one of the most powerful vehicles for celebrations and holidays. We use food as an expression of joy and gratitude throughout the year, but the Nine Days are altogether different. It’s the one time of year that we shift our focus away from the material to make room in our consciousness for the national mourning that has accompanied our people throughout this long exile. Of all the restrictions observed during the “Nine Days” leading up to Tishah B’Av, refraining from meat seems to be one of the toughest for many. We seem to manage curbing our swimming activities for a week, yet somehow need to pack more siyums (where meat can be served) into one week than the rest of the year. Admittedly, culturally we Jews are fairly reliant upon meat in our Western diets, and meatless menu planning can be a challenging deviation from our normal cooking routines. What makes this one practice so significant and how does abstaining from meat for a week really impact our lives?

The prohibition of eating meat during the “Nine Days” is a unique feature of this mourning period which is not incumbent upon those mourning the loss of a loved one. This practice is meant to remind us of the destruction of the Beis HaMikdash in Jerusalem, which we commemorate on Tishah B’Av, and the meat offerings which we can no longer offer. How can we comprehend the pleasure of bringing animal offerings or the loss we experienced as that era ended? If we cannot grasp it, how can we evoke a true sense of loss? To give pause to our own physical pleasures is an exercise that helps us to tap into what it meant to be able to physically connect, communicate, and be received by our Creator. While that understanding may still not be achievable, in this small way, we can begin to cultivate an inkling of what the offerings represented, both for the Jewish People and for G-d. Chazal are telling us to take a break from our normal routine, to not eat our regular foods like business as usual. We have to think about what we no longer have. The small personal sacrifice of not eating meat can be a profound reminder that this is indeed a time of loss.

Even distraught mourners have to eat, though, and in keeping with the tone of this period, I gravitate towards comfort foods, the yummy ones we crave that warm the soul and make us feel a little more nourished during times of loss. I like to pull out some of the dairy fish recipes I seldom get to make, pairing them with soups and breads, pastas and salads with the occasional veggie burger. Here is a classic fish recipe I am always happy to return to.

Trout Almondine

Brown butter gives this lemony butter sauce a rich, nutty flavor. Brook trout or Rainbow trout can be used in this classic dish.

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1/2 cup sliced almonds

4 trout fillets, skin on (about 6 ounces each)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Flour, for dredging

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

Juice of 2 lemons (about 4 tablespoons), or more to taste

1/3 cup finely chopped parsley

Directions:

Season the trout liberally with salt and pepper on both sides. Lightly dredge in flour; set aside. Heat a large, non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add raw sliced almonds to the pan to toast. Stir often to prevent burning. Remove and transfer out of pan when almonds become slightly colored and golden, about 2-3 minutes.

Add 1 tablespoon oil to the skillet over medium-high heat. Place 2 fillets in the pan (skin side down), pressing down with a metal spatula to ensure that the skin crisps evenly. Cook for 2-3 minutes (depending on thickness); flip and cook for another 2 minutes on the other side until flesh has a golden exterior. Transfer the fillets onto a platter. Repeat with remaining oil and fillets.

Wipe out any remaining oil or debris from the pan. Return pan to medium heat. Add the butter and continue to heat until the butter browns (1-2 minutes).

Add the lemon juice, parsley, and reserved toasted almonds; whisk together quickly. Remove from the heat immediately. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Spoon the butter sauce over the trout fillets and serve immediately. n

Naomi Ross is a cooking instructor and food writer based in Woodmere, NY.  She teaches classes throughout the country and writes articles connecting good cooking and Jewish inspiration.  Her first cookbook, The Giving Table, was released in December 2022. Follow her at @naomirosscooks on Instagram/FB/TikTok or visit her website: NaomiRossCooks.com.