Summer’s Gold
By: Naomi Ross
It’s no coincidence that the best cooks are proponents of “cooking seasonally.” You may wonder if that really matters in an era of the “global market,” where the local supermarket offers the same produce all year-round. While it’s true that you can now get peaches nearly any time of year, by incorporating produce that is grown locally and in the height of its season, your food will taste better when utilizing ingredients at the height of their ripeness and sweetness. An added benefit of cooking according to the season will also ensure that your menu will stay interesting and ever changing.
Summer corn is one of those things I wait for the whole year: bursting with natural sugars and a perky crisp flavor unlike any other time of year. Steamed whole, the corn ears need little more than butter and salt to bring out their “personality.” But there are so many more ways to enhance your dishes with fresh corn. Mexican street corn or spiced corn ribs may feature the cob in a starring role, but I also love to zip off the fresh kernels by cutting them off the cob and feature them in the best fresh salads with grilled meats, tomato salads, or delicately tossed with peaches and arugula. I also use their sweetness more subtly in the background as a purée.
Some “Corny” Tips:
- Choose corn that feels firm with plump, even kernels; look for corn ears that have brown tassels slightly sticky to the touch. If the tassels look black or feel dry, it may be old.
- Buy and store corn in their husks for ideal freshness (avoid pre-peeled and trimmed corn). Keep refrigerated until use to maximize moisture and freshness!
- Save the zipped cobs to use in soups/broths for extra flavor!
- When cutting kernels off cob, work over a bundt/tube pan to minimize mess.
Before the season is gone, get to a farmer’s market for the freshest, sweetest corn you can find and brighten up your dishes with the vibrant taste of summer.
Fresh Corn & “Crab” Cakes
A delicious light entrée or elegant plated corn-studded appetizer—I love to top each cake with a simple grape tomato and avocado salad or serve with spicy mayo (or both!). These can be made a day ahead but are best eaten the day they are made!
Yield: 20 cakes
3 cups fresh corn kernels (cut from about 3–4 ears of fresh corn), divided
1 shallot, quartered
1 cup whole milk or oat milk
2 eggs
3 tablespoons oil or melted butter
1 1/2 cups yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup flour
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
1 1/2 cups chopped (thawed) mock crab (about 6 sticks)
Canola oil, for frying
Minced chives and lime wedges, for garnishing
Directions:
1. Puree 1 1/2 cups corn kernels and shallot together in a food processor or blender.
2. Add milk, eggs, and oil. Process until blended and combined; set aside.
3. In a large mixing bowl, combine cornmeal, flour, salt, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and cayenne pepper. Whisk to blend.
4. Scrape out wet corn mixture and add to dry ingredients; stir until just combined. Fold in remaining 1 1/2 cups corn kernels, jalapeño pepper and mock crab.
5. Heat oil in a large skillet (enough for 1/4” depth) over medium-high heat until oil is hot and shimmering. Using a 1/4-cup measuring cup, carefully drop batches of batter into skillet, flattening each with the back of the cup (or spoon). Fry for about 2–3 minutes per side, until browned and crisp on the bottom. Flip and cook for another 2–3 minutes on other side. Transfer to a rack to drain; repeat with remaining batter.
6. Serve warm, topped with a simple avocado-tomato salad or crema or spicy mayo. Garnish with minced chives and lime wedges.
Naomi Ross is a cooking instructor and food writer based in Woodmere, NY. She teaches classes throughout the country and writes articles connecting good cooking and Jewish inspiration. Her first cookbook, The Giving Table, was released in 2023. Follow her at @naomirosscooks on Instagram/FB or visit her website: www.naomirosscooks.com.
