Lots of Love & Latkes!
By: Naomi Ross
Nothing compares to a fresh latke right from the pan: crisp and lacey, craggy fried threads of potato so good that you overlook the film of grease on your fingers. “It’s so worth it,” we say to ourselves as we reach for another.
Over the years, my latkes have gotten several facelifts, a reinvented version that keeps them fresh (and my guests on their toes). While I know my crowd expects traditional potato latkes at least one night of the holiday, there are seven other nights of Chanukah to get adventurous!
Pretty much anything fried tastes good, but it’s still fun to explore other vegetables (or combinations), and in some ways easier than dealing with fast-browning, oxidizing potatoes! If I use sweet potato or other root vegetables, not only will I get a terrifically unique flavor that I can match up with different spice profiles, I can even pretend my oil-laden latkes are healthy!
Badly fried food can be a regrettable experience: the oil is oozing, the texture all soggy. It’s an unappetizing mess and who wants to eat that? When pan frying, the food is semi-submerged in hot oil in a pan and flipped halfway through cooking. Foods that benefit from this method would include naturally tender cuts of breaded poultry or veal, delicate fish fillets, and vegetables.
Free yourself of your frying fears! Follow these tips for perfectly crisp-on-the-outside, moist and tender on-the-inside results that cook even and fast!
Choose your cooking oil carefully. A neutral-flavored oil with a high “flash point” is preferred. In other words, an oil that won’t break down at high temperatures. Some good choices are peanut oil, safflower oil, avocado oil, and canola oil. Olive oil is not because it has a low smoke point.
Choose a deep, heavy pan for frying. Leaving a headspace (space at the top of the pan) of at least one to two inches allows for a safety margin when the oil bubbles up as the food is added. A good heavy pan with a thick bottom will also conduct heat better, saving you from unevenly cooked, burnt food.
Make sure the food you are frying is relatively dry. Oil and water do not mix, especially at such high temperatures and burns from splattering oil are not fun.
The best temperature for frying is 350-375 degrees F. When deep-frying, the best way to make sure you’ve got it right is with a fry thermometer; but with pan-frying, the shallow depth of oil in the pan may preclude this. You can tell that oil is ready when a small cube of bread dropped into the oil sizzles upon contact and browns in 60 seconds. To keep the oil from scorching your latkes or doughnuts, add a small piece of raw carrot to the oil. This is a great hack for keeping everything nice and even and not burned.
The food should be less than an inch thick (that’s why thin cutlets work best). If too thick, the surface of the food will burn before the center is cooked. The oil should be no more than half as high as the food so that the same area is not fried twice when you flip it.
Don’t overcrowd the pan! Carefully add the food, leaving lots of space around each piece so the food will cook evenly. If you add too much food at once, the oil temperature will drop and the food will absorb fat, leaving a greasy finish.
Regulate the heat to keep the oil temperature steady by paying attention to how fast or slow the food is cooking, raising or lowering as needed.
Good drainage. Transfer fried foods from pan to a rack (or a plate lined with paper towels) to keep foods crisp.
Don’t reuse the cooking oil after it cools. Some say you can strain and reuse it, but if the oil has already begun to break down from the heat leaving undesirable compounds, it’s time to dump. Let the oil cool completely, then discard safely. (I pour it in a jar and throw it in the garbage. Don’t pour it down the drain!)
Old school or new world, good latkes are the making of wonderful Chanukah memories. Add your favorite toppings and enjoy the moment with family and friends.Sweet Potato Latkes
A little bit of spice compliments the warm flavors of sweet potato. The natural sugars in sweet potatoes can cause sticking in the pan. Do not try to move about or flip the latkes until a golden crust forms on the bottom of the latke.
Cook’s Note: For easiest prep, use the fine shredding disc on your food processor. Also, you can do this recipe ahead. Simply reheat uncovered on a sheet pan in a single layer in a 350 degrees F oven for 10-15 minutes or until hot and re-crisped.
Yield: about 20-24 latkes
2 1/2 pounds medium sweet potatoes (about 3-4), peeled and grated (see note above)
4 scallions, finely chopped
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon salt (or more to taste)
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Canola or vegetable oil, for frying
Directions:
Combine: Stir together potatoes, scallions, flour, eggs, and spices in a large mixing bowl.
Fry: Heat about 1/4-inch oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until hot (not smoking). Working in batches, spoon potato mixture (approximately 2-3 tablespoons per latke) into oil and flatten with the back of the spatula. Cook until golden brown, flipping once, about 2-3 minutes per side. Transfer latkes with slotted spatula to a rack or place on paper towels to drain.
Serve hot with applesauce and sour cream or Maple-Apple Cream.
Maple-Apple Cream
1/2 cup sour cream
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 1/2 teaspoons maple syrup
1/2 apple, peeled and grated
Directions:
Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Whisk to blend.
Recipes can be found in “The Giving Table,” published by Menucha Publishers. n
Naomi Ross is a cooking instructor and food writer based in Woodmere, NY. She teaches classes throughout the country and writes articles connecting good cooking and Jewish inspiration. Her first cookbook, “The Giving Table,” was released in December 2022. Follow her at @naomirosscooks on Instagram/FB/TikTok or visit NaomiRossCooks.com.
